BIOLOGICS IN SKINCARE - Are the benefits worth the risks?

In recent years, skincare and longevity industries have eagerly embraced biologics—powerful molecules such as exosomes, and growth factors — for their regenerative potential. While these anabolic factors, which actively promote cell growth, tissue regeneration, and healing processes, can deliver promising results, their rapid and largely unregulated adoption has introduced significant concerns regarding safety, efficacy, and consistency.

A critical consideration with these biologics, particularly exosomes and growth factors, is their ability to significantly influence cellular functions. Exosomes can initiate multiple biological responses, including cell proliferation, angiogenesis, inflammation, and immune modulation. While these processes can be beneficial in controlled therapeutic settings, they also carry potential risks. For instance, activating inflammatory pathways in recipient cells could lead to unintended consequences such as chronic inflammation or immune dysregulation, conditions closely linked to various diseases. Furthermore, if misused or administered without adequate oversight, biologics might inadvertently support or accelerate the progression of undetected malignant conditions, representing a serious long-term concern.

According to a recent MIT Technology Review article, "Exosomes are touted as a trendy cure-all. We don’t know if they work," highlighting the uncertainty surrounding their effectiveness and safety due to insufficient research and regulatory oversight (Hamzelou, 2024).

Skin Penetration and Absorption
Another important consideration is that growth factors, commonly included in skincare products, typically exceed the molecular size capable of penetrating the skin's barrier, known as the stratum corneum. Growth factors range from about 6,500 Daltons to over 30,000 Daltons, significantly larger than the 500 Dalton limit recognized by cosmetic chemists as the maximum size for effective skin penetration. Additionally, these proteins are water-soluble and unstable, making them ineffective at penetrating the lipid-rich outer barrier of the skin barrier. Consequently, despite their promising benefits, topical growth factor products often fail to deliver their intended active ingredients effectively to living skin cells beneath the surface.

Unrealistic Results
Unfortunately, the allure of trendy and unregulated biologics often leads to exaggerated benefits and underestimated risks. Immediate, noticeable improvements may mask potential long-term complications that have not been adequately researched or understood. Moreover, the crucial factor of dosage—essential for safety and effectiveness—remains poorly studied and standardized.

At AV Laboratories, we believe skincare should enhance your skin safely and predictably. This conviction led us to develop our patented AVL SOM3® formula—a careful, science-driven approach that prioritizes proven ingredients and optimal dosing. AVL SOM3® is meticulously crafted to deliver the precise balance of amino acids, vitamins, and peptides, each rigorously validated through over 500 clinical tests.

Furthermore, at AVL, we are committed to stringent manufacturing practices. Our products are produced in an FDA-registered, cGMP (current Good Manufacturing Practice) compliant laboratory. This ensures strict quality control and batch-to-batch consistency, delivering skincare solutions you can trust.

Our commitment is rooted in transparency, safety, and proven science. SOM3 provides the essential building blocks your skin needs for healthy cell function, robust collagen synthesis, and accelerated healing—without the unknown risks associated with unregulated biologics.

Ultimately, biologics like exosomes, peptides, and growth factors may offer significant therapeutic benefits, but their risks and long-term impacts must not be overlooked. By relying on ingredients backed by extensive clinical validation and maintaining strict control over quality and consistency, AV Laboratories ensures each product safely supports your skin's natural processes. Your skincare routine should inspire confidence and peace of mind—and at AV Laboratories, that's exactly what we deliver.

 

Reference: Hamzelou, J. (2024, October 29). Exosomes are touted as a trendy cure-all. We don’t know if they work. MIT Technology Review.